Terry Richardson treks the St Paul
Trail, Turkey's latest long distance
footpath.
Practical information: The Saint Paul Trail
The Lycian
Way
My first day on the trail. Despite the altitude and beating July sun, the work was going
well. In fact I was feeling pretty pleased with myself. We, a young Israeli volunteer
called Arnon and myself, had made good progress cutting branches and wire brushing
lichen from rocks along the path. Then it was time to slap on the flashes of red and white
paint, so other walkers could follow us over the Toros mountains in the footsteps of St
Paul.
The trail we were working on owes its existence to Kate Clow, a long-term resident of
the Mediterranean city of Antalya, close to one of the starting points of the route. Having
pioneered Turkey’s first long distance footpath, the Lycian Way Kate hit upon the idea of
a new path inspired by the journeys of the Apostle Paul, who wandered Asia Minor and
the Middle-east in the 1st Century AD, spreading the message of a new religion,
Christianity.
The modern-day path has two branches, a westerly route leading 450 kms from the
Roman city of Perge, now a well preserved archaeological site outside Antalya, through
the dramatic Toros mountains to Antioch in Pisidia. High on the Anatolian plateau,
Antioch holds a unique place in the history of Christianity, as the first place St Paul
preached to non-Jews. Unfortunately, the remains of St Paul’s church are scant, though
other Roman buildings like the aqueduct, bath house and temple of Augustus are in much
better shape. Sitting on the windswept steppe, with the towering Sultan Mountains as a
backdrop, the site makes a fitting end to an impressive trail.
The other branch of the long-distance path begins east of Antalya at Aspendos, where a
perfectly preserved Roman theatre still hosts concerts. From there it heads north west
through the spectacular Köprülü Canyon (where thrill seekers white water raft down the
churning river) before joining the main trail at Adada, an isolated Roman site.
Along its two routes, the St Paul trail forges its way through a dramatic landscape of deep
canyons, waterfalls, cedar forests and limestone peaks soaring to almost 3,000m.
Weaving through the mountains, it links surviving sections of the Roman road St Paul
once trod, to Selcuk and Ottoman trade routes and droving paths. Also using sections of
village footpath and forestry track, the path threads through a region famous for its flora
and fauna. Rare orchids attract botanists and the anemones, grape hyacinth and crocus are
breathtaking in Spring. Vultures and eagles soar high over the peaks. Foxes and wild boar
are another common sight, and during the waymarking we often came across tortoises
lumbering through the woods.
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