A proud little tram runs the length of Istiklal Caddesi to the centre of the modern city, Taksim Square.

The New City

Galata

Crossing the Golden Horn the new Galata bridge has a row of cafes at water level from where you can watch the fishermen pulling lines of shimmering sardines from the dark water. For a great view, stroll up through the narrow streets of Galata (see right), the European quarter in Ottoman days, to the medieval Galata tower. If you have a head for heights, the tower's observation platform (open 9am-8pm) has sweeping views over the roof-tops to the imperial mosques of the Old City. It is the perfect spot for a sunset drink and there is a restaurant with belly-dancing should you want to stay.

If you don't fancy climbing the streets of Galata, catch the underground furnicular railway, known as the Tunel. This squeaks its way up to the end of Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul's main shopping street.

Beyoglu & Taksim

A proud little tram runs the length of Istiklal Caddesi to the centre of the modern city, Taksim Square. Formerly seedy and rundown, the area around Istiklal Caddesi - known as Beyoglu - is enjoying a renaissance with lots of trendy cafes and galleries in the backstreets. After dark young Istanbullu come to eat and be serenaded by street musicians in the district's many restaurants, before continuing on to a nearby club or bar.

Half way along Istiklal Caddesi, Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage) is famous for its rowdy tavernas and restaurants, though locals prefer the places in the narrow streets off the Balik Pazari, or Fish Market, next-door.

The Bosphorus Suburbs

If you have the time, there are longer ferry trips from Eminönü (pier 3) up the Bosphorus, calling at suburbs like Bebek and Kanlica. Stamping ground of the city's rich and famous, passing these Bosphorus "villages" you will spot some beautiful Ottoman houses gliding by. It's a 90-minute journey to the end of the line, Anadolu Kavagi, where there is time to eat in one of the fish restaurants while enjoying the fresh Black Sea breeze.

If you want to linger at any of the stops on the return, ask when the next ferry is due. Alternatively, catch a bus or taxi back to Eminönü or Taksim when you're ready. In Bebek have tea in the café next to the tiny waterfront mosque, or on the terrace of the Bebek Hotel where posh locals come to gossip and enjoy the view. From Bebek it is a 20 minute stroll, along the waterfront to the massive ramparts of the Rumeli Hisari castle, built by Ottoman Sultan Mehmet II as part of his push to conquer Constantinople in 1453 (Open 9am-4pm every day).

Nearby Ortaköy is a great place to stroll with cobbled lanes leading down to a small square overlooking the Bosphorus. The waterside mosque is lit-up like a wedding cake at night and there's a lively street market at weekends.