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The Magazine

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Istanbul has lots of restaurants to choose from, with prices to suit all budgets.

Eating Out

For a cheap snack try one of the tasty fish sandwiches served from the violently rocking boats at the waterfront in Eminönü. The ubiquitous doner kebab stands are also a good bet, and try washing your kebab down with the yoghurt drink called ayran. If you're on a budget, there are self-service restaurants (see right) everywhere.

In winter the tempting smell of roasted chesnuts fills the air.

Restaurants

Sarnic

A varied menu featuring Turkish and European dishes served in the atmospheric surroundings of a Byzantine cistern behind Haghia Sophia.
Sogukçesme Sokagi, Sultanahmet, Tel 5122429

Rumeli Cafe

Delicious traditional Turkish and Ottoman dishes served at tables on the street in summer or in cozy rooms with a crackling fire in the colder months.
Ticarethane Sokak No 8, Sultanahmet, Tel 5120008

Pandeli

In the vaulted chambers above the entrance to the Spice Bazaar, Pandeli is one of the city's oldest restaurants and is still under Greek management. Delicious traditional dishes served by white-suited waiters. Lunch-only.
Misir Çarsisi No 54, Eminönü, Tel 5678996

Yengec

One of dozens of restaurants in the colourful district of Kumkapi. Choose from a mouth- watering selection of meze, meat and fish and prepare to be entertained by roaming street bands. You are guaranteed a lively night out with lots of singing and dancing.
Telli Odalar Sokak No 6, Kumkapi, Tel 7898769

Galata

In a sidestreet off Istiklal Caddesi, this atmospheric taverna has a good set menu of meze and grilled meat. But it's the musical entertainment every evening which is the real draw with traditional fasil music and dancing.
Orhan Apaydin Sokak No 11, Beyoglu, Tel 2931139

Haci Abdullah

Excellent Ottoman and traditional Turkish dishes served lunch-only in this famous restaurant in a sidestreet off Istiklal Caddesi.
Aga Camii Sakizagaci sok 17, Beyoglu, Tel 2938561

Maiden's Tower (Kiz Kulesi)

Enjoy a stunning panorama from this tower in the middle of the Bosphorus. Open as a café in the afternoon, diners in the restaurant are entertained by music and folk dancing every evening. Ferries run occassionally from Ortaköy (European side), and more regularly from Salacak, near Üsküdar on the Asian shore. Call to check ferry times and make dinner reservations, Tel 0216 3424747.

Korfez

Exclusive waterside fish restaurant reached by private motor launch from Rumeli Hisari, on the European side of the Bosphorus. House specialities include seabass baked in salt, which is cracked off at your table. Perfect for a special night out, though expect to pay for atmosphere and location.
Sahil Boyu, Kanlica (Asian Side), Tel 0216 4567898.